Sue's Journal - 2007
May 5, 2007
Our 2007 road trip is just beginning. We left Hillsborough River State Park April 23rd and stayed in Pinellas Park, Florida for a week to say our goodbyes to the grandkids and their parents. Had dinner with the rest of our family and off we started. Stopped in Gainesville to see a couple of friends and made our way to Murphy, N.C. This is where we kind of regroup from our winter tasks and get set for our adventures. Tucked away on a mountain side we begin to relax and get in the mode of taking life easy. Some of our friends know of this place and yes the brook is babbling away.
Our trip up interstate 75 was good and except for the occasional car that likes to whip in front of a big rig. In all the years we have traveled 75 it never ceases to amaze me that the road work in Georgia never ends. Twenty-three miles of orange barrels to squeeze between, bridges that are being widened, and then more works on the side of the road to widen the interstate. Wondered how many more years it will take to complete the project and if they will run out of funds before then? Guess we won’t run out of road work, there will be plenty more Orange Barrels along the way.
Many spring flowers are blooming
here in the mountains of North Carolina.
Wild Azaleas, Lady Slippers, Violets, Trilliums, Iris. The Mountain Laurel
and Rhododendrons are budding. There was a frost here about two weeks ago.
It looks very dismal sort of like fall when the trees are all brown and the
new growth has not come out yet the mountains look lonesome without that fresh
green coat on them. The grass is green, but not much for rain around either.
The sunsets are great to watch as the orange ball slips behind the hillsides.
Temperatures are in the 40’s at night and warm up around 11:00am to
the 80’s.
We hung a hummingbird feeder outside our camper window and the little critters
just love it. So are we with watching them slurp up the sugar water.
Sat on the porch today and the hummingbirds were buzzing around my head even
had a little Carolina Wren decide to sit on the table and watch me for awhile.
We will be leaving here in
a couple of days so stay tuned in and find out where our next stop will be.
Sunday May 6th, 2007
We left the mountains of North Carolina and traveled along route 64, a curvy roadway that runs along the Ocoee. Been this way a couple of times before, very scenic and one must be alert to the oncoming traffic in places. Although it had rained most of the day before, some remnants of the clouds remained. This brought us a little North of Chattanooga, Tenn. On to Interstate I-75 where we then picked up I-24 and headed to Nashville.
Most of the day stayed cool and sunny and traffic was light. Not much for construction, although being a weekend most road work was not being done. Some of the crops are being planted and some are starting to break ground. Seeing most places had a hard freeze two weeks ago it is amazing that things are growing at all.
We stopped for lunch at a rest stop just over the boarder in Kentucky on I-24 and found an abundance of birds and multiple nests in the trees. One tree had blooms on the bark of it and someone there informed me it was called a redbud. Very pretty mauve colored blooms. Not sure if the red buds of Florida do that but in Kentucky they do. We drove on to Oak Grove, Kentucky and filled up the tank. We decided to spend the night there and watched the onslaught of cars and truck fill up. Can be mind boggling with the quantity of trucks and car traffic in that area. We have stopped there before, but don’t remember it being quite that busy. If you think about the number of 18-wheeler just stopping there and across the street at a Petrol Mart it just must run into the thousands. Many fuel trucks were making deliveries too.
Monday May 7th
We were on the road early today. Of course the time change helped with that. We traveled route I-24 into Illinois joined up I-57 up to I-64 West. We made it through St. Louis unscathed and every time we pass through I give a sigh of relief when we managed to link up to I-70. Think I almost hate going through there worse than Atlanta. The Arch is magnificent and it always makes me think of Captain Kangaroo, Mr. Green Jeans, and Bunny Rabbit. He did a show from there once and it was one of the things I always wanted to experience and I did a couple of years ago.
Although there has been rain the rivers are not as high as we have seen them. The crops are growing and everything looks green. We stopped for lunch at a rest stop and the radar didn’t look great for the area, so guess we will stop early today and see if the weather improves or moves on. We fueled up in Warrenton, Missouri along I-70 and have stopped for the night in a town called Danville. The campground is called Lazy Day RV Park. Very nice and will probably move on tomorrow and stop in Iowa. Update on Rivers. The Ohio, Illinois and Mississippi were looking okay, however the Missouri is nearing flood Stage and places like Boonville and St. Joseph, which we need to pass over are preparing for the worse.
Tuesday May 8th, 2007
Our morning started early we left the campground about 7:30 am and tried to find out information on the radio about weather and possible road closures. Being still east of Boonville had no idea what we would encounter. As it was the Missouri River was flowing fast and very high. We began seeing farm fields flooded and knowing that I-29 follows the Missouri River hoped for the best after Kansas City.
Stopped at a rest area just North of Kansas City and bought a newspaper which contained information about flooding in St. Joseph and some roads that were closed on Monday and would reopen today. It wasn’t long after that the flooding of the fields was worse and it went on for miles. Many farmers moved their equipment to higher grounds and some homes were being threatened by the rising water.
After crossing into Iowa the worst was yet to come. The roads were open, but had not been in some areas for very long. As the water was still level with the roadway. Vast areas of flooding and even a town where a levee had been breeched were underwater. Some at truck stops didn’t get out in time and the cabs were submerged. Along with a McDonalds and a few other businesses, many farms and homes were also covered in mud and water.
We are North of Council Bluffs and Omaha, like seeing this place as you ride along you suddenly notice the rising of the bluffs. These bluffs are left over from the ice age and when the Missouri receded it left this silt and hills of Loess (pronounced luss). It is written that if you remove the top soil with the next rain the loess will dissolve like sugar, cut it vertically and it will stand forever. Loess Hills Scenic Byway runs from Hamburg, Iowa to Akron for about 200 mile. Will be something to consider doing at a later date.
We found a campground called Woodlands RV Park, Little Sioux, Iowa. Decided to stop and push on tomorrow. Not calling for any rain, but we are now hearing reports of flooding south and east from where we came from in Missouri. Okay it may not be the best place as the Little Sioux River is about a quarter mile west of us and the Missouri is a half mile south of us. Woodlands RV have a history of its own. It was a farm land that was purchased in the early 1970’ and lots were sold. Many things were planned and the first lot owners were members of an Aspen Camping Club from Omaha. Some sites had water and electric and others had a hydrant and electric wire strung from tree limbs. In the middle 70’s Woodland Camp Association was formed and more lots were sold. In l980 Thousand Adventure purchased the remaining lots. In 1994 a public auction was held for any lots still unsold. Woodlands Campground owns 19 of these which they use for any off the road campers, Passport America or Coast to Coast members. It was a neat little place kind of deserted as the locals have not started yet and its atmosphere reminds you a little of a campground in the Everglades that we have been to.
Wednesday May 9th
Bright and sunny today and hope it stays that way for a few more days. Iowa does need to improve its roadways. In some places they have started, but it sure needs a lot more. We decided to try the breakfast at the little café in Little Sioux. It was very good and a treat considering we don’t usually stop and have breakfast when we travel by ourselves. We crossed into South Dakota and there were signs of plenty of water about not nearly the flooding, but some fields are soggy still. Many geese, ducks and loons swimming about in the fields filled with water. We had to take a detour in Sioux Falls to get onto I-90 west as there was some road work in progress. Took advantage of the Flying J and filled up with fuel in Sioux Falls. Diesel was $2.76 a gallon, about 25 cents more than we have been paying. The weather is delightful and in the 70’s no humidity the nights still cool off. The landscape is more and more hills and fewer trees. We thought about stopping in Mitchell, S.D., but weren’t interested in seeing the Corn Palace again. We stopped in a town call Presho, S.D. Campground is called Frontier RV Park. They do have a web site. Wide open spaces and lots of Cottonwood trees, a few lilac bushes and some planters with flowers in them. Not much here except a church, campground, couple of gas stations and a few houses, and a poster for a Bull Riding show the middle of the month. This will be held at the arena on the hill. Oh yeah we are next to an airport. At least we saw one plane land early today. Diesel prices are $3.20 per gallon. Sure glad we filled up earlier and have a large tank. Okay we do appreciate small town America, but don’t think we could survive the desolation.
Tomorrow we will head for Wall. S.D. and the famous Wall Drug Store.
Thursday May 10
We started out a little later in the morning seeing we didn’t have a very long drive to Wall, S.D. In the farm fields we began seeing pheasant and antelope, geese and ducks. Soon the Badlands became apparent and your mind begins to wander about the pioneers and how they endured these areas while crossing. The mornings are cool around 40 and the afternoons warm up to the 80’s with the ever present wind.
We found our campground in Wall it is called Arrowhead Cabins and RV Park. So you know how we all loved KOA’s cause the were always next to railroad tracks. This campground faces the railroad tracks. Yes the trains are running and we are sure it will only get better at night. This place is only 2 blocks from the famous Wall Drug Store. Wall Drug was originally a single building and at the end of the Badlands offered Free Ice Cold Water to any who passed by. It also advertised coffee for 5 cents, it still has free ice water and coffee refills are 5 cents. Instead of being one store it now has sprawled out to 4 buildings offering a variety of items from fresh baked donuts to jewelry, and the usual tourist items that most of us can’t resist living without.
Along with this stable attraction the town is growing and banks, gas stations, restaurants and other businesses are setting up. There is a National Park Grassland Office which is now on the main street just 2 blocks from Wall Drug. It is a nice exhibit and worth the time to explore.
Seeing we have another short journey tomorrow we found out from the locals that the Badlands entrance is about 10 miles away. It has a short loop called Prairie Dog Town, which most everyone there likes to go to see the wildlife. Guess we will check it out.
May 11
We packed the motor home and left it parked and took the Jeep into the Badlands to find the wildlife. As you know the best times to see them are in the early morning and late evenings. After entering the gate we found our gravel road and no sooner turned into it and there were a group of rams just settling down on the hillside. Not much further and the Buffalo were starting to appear. Of course Dave had to get up close and one was not too pleased to be disturbed from resting, It didn‘t want to pose for any more photos. We left him alone and drove on. The prairie dogs were out and scurrying about, some just sit and watch you. I think Dave likes these best. Did see antelope, but not any pheasants to photograph, but it wasn’t for trying. We followed this road for about 20 miles and then looped around to another road way to bring us back to the gate that we entered. A herd of mule deer crossed in front of us and this made the whole excursions worth taking this side trip.
It was time to leave Wall, but not before sampling the fresh made donuts. They were good.
Off to Keystone, S.D.
Our drive was about 50 miles today and decided to fill up with fuel before the prices increase again. It was $2.89 a gallon for diesel just outside side of Rapid City, S.D.
Now the drive to the campground in Keystone is another story in itself. There is this road called Iron Mountain Drive. Any of you who have been on Joe Brown Highway in Murphy, N.C. know what that roadway is like. Route 16A (Iron Mountain Drive) makes Joe Brown seems like a super highway. Many twist and hairpin turns, narrow roadway and not much move over room. After being on this you know how it got its name. If you don’t have steel in you don’t attempt it. Just before we reached the campground we came around the bend after a steep climb and there were several burros right up next to the road. Oh yeah and a couple of buffalo in the pastureland.
Our Campground is called Spokane Creek in Keystone, S.D. they have a web site. It is a very pretty place. It sets in a valley, very open and serene, a little creek and a couple of small ponds. We’re sure the mule deer will be seen walking around this place.
We don’t have any internet service in our camper or phone service, so will have find the nearest high point or go into town. The campground has offered us the use of there dial up if we really need it We will be here until the 1st of June.
May 12, 2007
Today we decided to spend some down time and catch up on a few things. We discovered a couple of hitchhikes on board. As we pulled out containers we found a nest that was started by a furry little animal. So no other signs of it still on board so will have to keep checking it out, hopefully it decided to jump off on one of our stops. Next we found some pesky ants that were quite large and under the water heater compartment. We had seen them here and there through out the motor home, but had no idea that they had set up residence. After spraying and setting out traps we hope to have eradicated both hitchhikers. Pays to take some time to do inspections and clean out areas.
Our next adventure was to walk the hillside. Very serene, and there are some violets and trillium blooming. The hillside is mostly made up of grass, rocks (boulders) and ponderosa pine and cottonwood trees. Found some acorns, but didn’t find the tree on our path. We didn’t find any gold in them there hills, but a lot of mica, quarts, and onyx. Looking our over the valley is just gorgeous. We also brought back a couple of ticks on us, so don’t think we will be off the beaten path too often. There are a few birds around, and did put out the hummingbird feeder just in case there are any around. One Robin in particular stays around our camper and comes real close to you. You wouldn’t think that anyone would have been hand feeding it, would you? Mule deer walk through the campground each morning. Even a couple of babies were with this heard them. Red squirrels scurry about and the dandelions are like a carpet on the ground.
The evenings and early mornings are just delightful, the afternoons warm up to the 80’s and 90’s. Everyone keeps telling us that it is quite warm for this time of the year.
We don’t have phone or internet service so road up to the top of the mountain in the Custer State Park boundary to see if we could get a signal. On our way we found some burros (donkeys) they came up to several cars to get handouts, sorry to have seen them so dependent on humans. I know people think it is great, but they are really hurting them more than they realize. Seems these free range burros are descendants of more domestic one that were let loose back in the 80’s. The ancestors were used for rides down into a canyon here and when the attraction went away the animals were released into the wild. There were also a couple of buffalo and an antelope grazing. We did get phone service for a brief period, put the internet would not work. Oh well there is always some place in town that we will find.
May 13
Today is Sunday, and a Happy Mothers Day to all mothers. It is very warm today about 90 degrees in the mountains, so just can imagine what temperature it feels like in the Plains Area. We decided to take a ride along the rest of Iron Mountain Road to see what the rest of this twisted, knotted roadway is like. Not any surprises as to what is know as “Pigtail Turns.” The tunnels are narrow and vertically challenging. No our motor home would not fit. As you enter the tunnels, you see scrape marks and parts of motor home awnings on the side of the road. Everyone tells you about the big rig that was stuck in one of the tunnels. Some of these tunnels have bypasses, but the second shortest one does not. As you drive along this road, you also get to see Mt. Rushmore in the distance; everyone stops for that photo opportunity. We also found a place to get full signal phone service, so we can also get e-mail, funny how we become so dependent on these things for our daily lives. I will tell you that I have seen more pay phones in this area than I have anywhere else in some time.
At the top of the mountain, we found a monument to Peter Norbeck, a former Governor of S.D. who surveyed and planned three of these scenic roadways back in the 30’s. As you drive and see the views, you begin to realize he did a fantastic job in capturing the site of Mt. Rushmore. So the question is did he plan it that way or is it just coincidence considering that he did so on horseback or by foot.
We went into the town of Keystone, walked around the shops, and had lunch at the Family Restaurant. It was great food and very fresh. Not too busy for a holiday afternoon we went to the Red Garter Saloon just to make sure it was still there and remembered a dinner we had there with Norm and Kay some time ago. Its décor is still red and the old bar with its bullet holes are still in existence. The town has expanded and a few modern hotels added along with a new Borglum Historical Museum, A chairlift ride, and the huge expansion of the roadway into Keystone. Some shops were not open, as the season does not start until the end of the month. One can no longer have a helicopter ride around Mt. Rushmore. It was a nice day and enjoyed revisiting the area.
Monday found us going into Rapid City, the forecast for today calls for rain and dropping temperatures. We took another mountain road that will take us away from the small towns to the main highway 79. No visit is complete here unless we visit Landstrom’s Jewelry Store. They are one of the original Black Hills Jewelry creators. They have a web site www.Landstrom’sJewelry.com. In case, you want to check it out. We also found the Sam’s Club and Super Wal-Mart. (My friend Linda will be pleased). On our return, we ran into the rain and as predicted, the temperatures are dropping. We also managed to see some wild turkeys in a field and of course the burros. Dave and I each have a favorite one now.
Tuesday morning was very chilly 36 degrees, had to get the heater out. Of course, this is the weather we expected here not temperatures in the 90’s. Took a ride to the top of Iron Mountain to make our phone calls and get our e-mail messages. There are many herds of mule deer around. On the way, back we found Center Lake, a very serene place. We would like to hike to the Ghost Town that is within a mile of the campground, but just don’t want to chance the unwanted parasites that are in abundance here. Will have to check with the locals here and find out what they use or do about them.
Wednesday was a day for news. One of our friends is very ill in the hospital and we are saying our prayers for him. Another fell and broke a finger, an acquaintance had a planned surgery and is recovering at home. Think we are all getting a little older. Between car accidents and children doing scary mommy moments we are feeling a little helpless being so far away.
Our visit to Mount Rushmore was rather pleasant. Being it was the middle of the week and early in the season, we were surprised to see the amount of people that were there. A couple of tour busses arrived. A group of constituents was holding a meeting to do with Rushmore and when we went to have lunch, we stood in line just behind the Governor. We did not know it was he until we got back and watched the news. Of all the places we have visited, it seems that in the last 20 years most of the improvements seem to be at Mt. Rushmore. From the small brown buildings that were in place in the 80’s to the Stoned entryway added in the 90’s, 11 years later Accessible walkways with handrails and a parking garage has been added. You pay to park and that pass is good for 6 months. No other entry fee is required. Checked to see if there will be a special event planned for Memorial Day, was a little disappointed to find out that there will not be one. Will have to check in other areas to see what might be going on.
On our walk around, we sighted a mountain goat munching the trees. It always amazes us how many people walk pass and never notice these things. I would like to say that it is because they see them all the time, but know that is not true. It is truly not taking the time to notice what is in front of you. When we go to the top of the mountain, many people stop and see the monument to Peter Norbeck, yet they never turn around and see the view of Mt. Rushmore.
May 24
We are now taking some of the side roads that the locals tell us about and find some neat roads that cut through Custer State Park. We joined the Needles Highway and enjoyed the day watching peoples reaction to the tightness of the tunnels that they were about to pass through. We came upon Lake Sylvan, a man made lake, very beautiful and tranquil. The construction of the original lodge and lake let one have the experience the wilderness, get in some fishing and enjoy the atmosphere. In addition to the lodge, there is a general store, lots of parking and picnic area. People we fishing or in the process of going fishing. A paved walkway of about a mile around the lake is very accessible to all. .
We found many state campgrounds that were not open as of yet and some lodges that were just opening. The state purchased these old hunting lodges some time ago and the state park system now runs them and everyone can enjoy them.
Our trip was not without finding some more wildlife. Every day we see something different. Today we found two herds of buffalo with babies. A few Pronghorn Antelope and some white tail deer. We also saw some wild turkeys that were too far away to photograph. Guess the only wildlife we have not seen would be coyotes, wolves, mountain lions, and bobcats. We still have some time yet to find them. We did find a large print in the mud. It could be a bobcat’s print or the mountain lion. We just know it does not belong to any dog.
We checked out Jewel Cave National Monument that is just west of Custer, S.D. The tour through the cave is about an hour and half in length. The entire tour is paved and with handrails on the numerous stairways and platforms for viewing. This project started in 1964 and completed in l972 by private contractors. Jewel Cave rooms and passages are made of Calcite Crystals that sparkle like jewels. These calcite crystals are know as dogtooth spar, each crystal is elongated, many-sided and pointed at the end. Nailhead spar: each crystal is elongated, many-sided and flat or blunted end. Boxwork is a crisscrossing pattern of calcite veins also found in the caves. Scintillites, underground sparkers of tiny quartz crystals were unknown until found in the caves. In the wetter sections of the caves, you will find the soda straw formations as well as the stalagmites and stalactites. Jewel cave is the second largest cave in the U.S. Mammoth Cave as the Largest. There are many rooms and sections to this cave that still being explored and would recommend seeing this cave. On our way back to the campsite we stopped in Custer and had lunch, walked the street and took some pictures of the buffalo statues that adorn the street corners. These painted buffalo are for an auction later this year. While in Rapid City we found on the main street some bronze statues and then found out there are actually 22 of these statues and they are all of different presidents of the U.S. When we go back to Rapid City will have Dave take some picture of them.
End of May
Cannot believe our time is over here at Spokane Creek. It has been a great three weeks. So many different animals that we have seen in the area. Many side roads and main roads that we traveled brought us to find valleys and terrific views that we could really enjoy for a committed amount of time. Our stay has been peaceful, restful and truly enjoyable. The weather has been terrific. It was a little warm when we first arrived; most of the rain seemed to circumnavigate us with the mountains all around. Only the last days here have been rainy and only one pea size hailstorm. Yeah we were very blessed. A few chilly mornings, which we did enjoy the benefits of, and many sunny afternoons. We would recommend Spokane Creek RV to anyone who wants to enjoy the Black Hills area. Not a lot of traffic during the week, it increases a little more on the weekends. They tell us, August brings the motorcycles. It is quiet, enjoyable wildlife present and not a long distance to drive to any of the attractions in the area. What we will miss is the delicious cinnamon rolls that are freshly made and as big as a dessert plate.
We did not get back to Rapid City, but it is a great city to get around. Guess what we found enlightening was on the morning news report the traffic report was missing. Unless one has tuned into the National New Program, one does not get a complete weather report. When a storm is present in the area, the news bulletins keep you well informed.
While here we have learned many of our friends have had some health issues and we are glad that they are now on the mend. We are close to our camping family and think of them often when we are away. Missed not being with them on Memorial Day Weekend, but we did get to call and talk to them.
We met Earlene and C.H. for lunch today in Keystone. It is always great to meet up with friends on the road. We needed to catch up on what has been happening since we last saw each other. They will join us in Wyoming in a couple of days.
Many different wild flowers are beginning to bloom here. Mountain Phlox, which we have already sent pictures of, Cats paws, or cotton puffs, Bluebells, Lobelia, Violets, Mountain Iris, Morning Glory, seem to be everywhere. The weather has been so different here that many of the flowers are getting a late start such as the Lupine, which is out, but not in bloom. Sorry to say we will not get to see it.
Friday June 1st, 207
We awoke to rain showers. It was moving day and with some luck, we managed to get everything hooked up and put away without the rain drenching us. On our travel down Iron Mountain Road, we saw the burros one last time. Not much else for wild life out, guess they don’t like the rain either. We stopped at the Flying J in Rapid City to check out the information that given us about them no accepting Visa Credit Cards at the truck pumps. It was true Visa is no longer accepted but Master Card is. You can still use Visa at the auto pumps, but for as many gallons as these units need at a fill-up we would still be there along with a few others waiting in line. Oh the joys of travel. Thank goodness, we learned about this before the next fill-up came.
The rains came and then some as we traveled Route 90 west. Many streams look like rushing waterways. This makes day four for rain. Sure wish this low-pressure area would move on somewhere else for a little while.
We stopped at Wal-Mart in Spearfish, S.D. mostly just to stop and get out for a while, with this rain it makes driving tedious. My friend Linda will be pleased when she reads this. Therefore, we stocked up on essentials and discovered it was still pouring outside so we walked around and found a few more things that we really did not need. Not sure, what is available for supplies in Sundance, but now we do not have to worry about it.
Mountain View Campground in Sundance, Wyoming is true to its name. There is a mountain and it is just off the highway, but you there is no noise from any of the traffic going by. Unobstructed views that you can look way off into forever. The owners here are very friendly and pleasant. This campground was a KOA back in the 70’s.
Saturday June 2.
We were right about there not being a whole lot here. There is a grocery store, police station, State Forest Service, a couple of gas stations, hardware store and post office, and a couple of churches. We found a nursery and got some new flowers for my planter. Took a ride into the wide-open spaces and found some wildflowers, the Paintbrushes are just starting to come out. In a couple of days, the fields will be full of flowers. We saw lots of free roaming cattle and just a couple of antelope. It has stopped raining, but he clouds are moving in again. The sun is shinning and the temperatures are just perfect. So happy to have internet and phone service again.
Monday June 4th brought us together with our friends C.H. and Earlene. We will stay in Sundance until 23 June and then move on to Gillette, Wyoming. We have visited the grocery store and prices are within reason. Went to the Mercantile Store and met an interesting character who told us many stories about Sundance. Unique store in itself as most of the items were very old and there was not a space left for anything else.
Have been to the Aro Restaurant and we have seen this is the place where everyone goes. Food is good too. We went to the tourist information booth at the rest area and got some maps and flyers. The National Forest Office is just down the street from this campground. Therefore, we got more information about what to see and do there. The dirt roads all interconnect and it is just a matter of finding the right one to take. We road part way up the one next to the campground and found a few deer and antelope. The area becomes free range and there are ranches dotted about. Each morning Dave and I walk up this dirt road and a couple of horses have befriended Dave. At least that is what I tell him. As we walk along they follow or watch us and Dave has stopped and petted them.
What one does to take up time is visit the local museum and brush up on the history of the area. The Museum is in the basement of the courthouse and has some interesting items on display. First you learn of a missile site outside of town. The town got its name from the Indian Sundance here and The Sundance Kid got his name from the town as he spent 18 months in jail here. The populations is about 1100 and the Subway sandwich shop is a Sunday hang out. It also has good ice cream and a flower shop in the same building.
We road up to Warren Tower and was amazed at the big yellow flowers in bloom in the forested area. We thought them to be sunflowers as they are big and seem to follow the sun. The locals do not call them that, but cannot seem to find out as of yet what they are. Possibility they could be Sows Ear. The Warren Tower is a fire tower and you can see five states from there. The altitude is about 6,600ft there. Many tiny wildflowers were along the hillside. The Lupine will be blooming in about a week.
Another cold rainy day arrived and we just stayed put. Caught up on some things and many campers stopped for the night to get off the road. The weather is very chilly and any elevations above 6,000 have gotten snow. Just hope it is all gone when we get farther west.
After the rain, we went exploring the back roads. We found ourselves in the great wide-open spaces. Couples of old farm houses and some newer cattle ranches. Our trip took us to Cook Lake Recreation Area. Pretty lake (we would consider this a pond in size) and a campground that really was meant for off road camping. We are sure others have used big units, but would not consider bringing ours out there. We saw a few wild turkeys and some deer. Have definitely decided that we could and would not live that far out from everything and everyone.
The day had finally arrived to go to Lead and Deadwood. I might add that those who know us will find great satisfaction in that knowledge. It has only taken us 22 years to fill that goal. We started out by going to Spearfish and doing the Canyon Road Route (14A). It was a gorgeous canyon and the waterfalls were regal. With all the rain that has been around it was no wonder the falls were full and water was rushing over them. We had lunch at a little Café in Cheyenne Crossings. The Indian Taco ,made with fry bread and all the taco fillings, was just mouthwatering and very filling. We only ordered a small and it sure was plentiful. .
Lead is a smaller town, and sister city of Deadwood. Its history there is at the foundry considering the finds of Iron Ore, and gold there back in the 1890’s. The foundry is still there and you can tour it, but we chose not to do so. Lawlessness was rampant in Deadwood that is why some went and founded Lead.
Deadwood is very busy and tourist flocks there now for the gambling just like the Wild West Days. The original storefronts are there, but in some ways, the history I was looking for has disappeared. We will go back and do the tour when Jean and Ray join us. We promised we would wait for them to do that. Besides, we need another Indian Taco for lunch.
On Sunday, Jean and Ray surprised us by arriving a week early, we look forward to having them join in our adventures. They arrived with Banners for flying on our Motor homes and we have caused some uproar with them. Now everyone that comes in wants one. I think the campground owners are glad we are here. Another 20 Newmar units have reservations for here next week. That will be interesting to see.
Devils Tower.
We are about 20 miles from Devil’s Tower National Monument. This is the first appointed National Monument. We have heard many versions of the story of the forming of Devils Tower. Depending on which folk lore you like it all has to do with a bear and children. Seems the Indian children were playing and the male child became a bear and chased the female children. The forest trees helped protect the females, one in particular had them climb on, and it began to rise so the bear could not get to them. The marks from the bear’s claws became embedded in the rock as it rose out of the ground. Thus, the scouring look on the side of the rock, and try as he might the bear could not get the girls. The bear got very tired, lay down next to the rock, and went to sleep. Of course, the bear did not wake and the girls escaped. There is now a mound next to Devils Tower and it looks like a sleeping bear of course. Therefore, this is kind of a nutshell version, but you can look into it if you wish.
We did not see any bears or dancing children there. Nor did we have a close encounter with any aliens. We did see the prayer cloths or bundles. Moreover, no one was climbing the tower today. The month of June is when the Indians do there devotions (Prayers) at the tower so not climbing is allowed. We did have some rain and we discovered the rain forest of the tower. Yeah well, what is a little liquid sunshine when you are traveling? The walk around the tower is about a mile and a half. We managed to get just a little wet. Honest it was only raining on the other side of the mountain. Okay Kevin would not want to know that it was also thundering and a couple of lightening streaks were present. We managed to finish the hike around the tower.
We had lunch at a family home cooked food restaurant before our return to the campground. What’s wet clothing when you are out having fun and enjoying the view of the tower?
Return trip to Deadwood. We spent the day in Deadwood; yeah it involved the gambling at the slot machines. Hey, someone has to try it out. I played the penny machines and Dave played the quarter machines. Neither one of us won but it was fun anyways. Looking into the tour books, I found that the gambling in Deadwood came to be with the stipulation that there be an 80-85% return to the players. Some places give as much as 90-92% returns. Guess someone else got our return. Even so that is a good thing considering the odds are better than in Vegas, as was told to us from someone who goes there.
We decided to do the trolley tour to get the history of the area. Most famous place is the #10 saloon. Wild Bill Hickcok while playing cards was shot and killed inside this establishment. His killer found some 10 hours later at a different saloon arrested, tried and would you believe found not guilty. Seems he testified that Wild Bill had shot his brother and therefore justice had been done. Along the main street just a few doors down from Saloon #10 there stands the original brothel. It closed in 1972 because of back taxes. The contents of the building went up for auction and today someone with a sense of humor but mannequins in the windows dressed provocatively. The Calamity Jane is also know in this area, she had a thing for Wild Bill and some say he was a married man, with no interest in her, but none the less they were friends and Calamity Jane was know to be a persuasive woman when she wanted to be. Mount Moriah Cemetery is up on a hill and is the final resting place of Wild Bill, Calamity Jane and quite a few others. The original cemetery was down closer to town, but the flooding waters from the river kept washing the bodies down stream. The only sensible thing to do was to move it all to higher ground. Wild Bill’s is the most notable and people want mementos from him so they kept chipping away at his statue. The final statue is made of bronze and cost $3,000.000.
This cemetery has a section for each ethnic group Jews, Masons, Children, and Chinese. The Chinese section has only a few gravesites left as many have come to reclaim the ancestors. New to the Cemetery is the Veterans section with monuments, flags and a spectacular view of the whole city.
Our day was done off we headed by to base camp and the day ended with a hailstorm. The hail was the size of dimes and we now have a few pin size holes in the covers over the slide outs. The best was the gorgeous rainbow that was after the storm.
Our next visit was to Lead. We went back to Spearfish Canyon. This is a pretty area and I think one could experience a winter vacation there. With fishing available year round and snowmobiles to ride on one could find things to do. We stopped to get the Indian Taco for lunch again. Ray and Jean needed to experience this lunch. With full stomachs, we pushed on to get another trolley ride in Lead. This is a town owned by a corporation. The Mining industry closed in 2001 as it cost more to mine the gold than what it was selling on the exchange for. The mining company gave the city the site and has now become a research area soon to open at the site. Many of the houses built by the mine for its workers and sold to them at cost. Although they owned the house, the top soil was theirs, anything found underneath belonged to the mine. Do not think anyone ever said anything. At least they did not turn it in. Although the open pit is at the center of town, the gold mile is up on a hill and was underground nearly 3-5 miles. I called this a hill it is a mountain visible to the eye from Deadwood. Lead is much smaller than Deadwood and not quite as busy, many stores have closed with the mine leaving.
Most of the history is still around the area of Deadwood and Lead you just have to look for it. If we had visited this area in 1996 not sure we would have enjoyed it as much then as now. For sure, some of the tours would not have been available.
What is the day without a tragedy, I left my cell phone back where we had lunch. By the time, I finally contacted the establishment we were nearly 30 miles away and with only a few minutes to get there before they closed. We did make it in time and recovered the phone. The not so friendly lady who answered my call was quite upset with me as that it was a few minutes past closing and she was trying to ring up the last patrons for the day. A big thank you went to the server that we had earlier that day. She at least had a smile and was pleasant.
Guess when your day is over it should be so immediately. Don’t we all wish that were true?
Last few Days in Sundance.
Our time is drawing near to move on the Gillette, Wyoming. Figured I would venture out to find a haircut. Think again, the shop is only open one day a week. According to the voice message on the phone, whatever day the open sign appears on the street is that day. Guess we will wait until we get to Cody for that haircut.
Having dinner at a restaurant is another story in itself. The Aro seems to be the place. Good food, but they sometimes run out of things. There is another restaurant but they are only open for breakfast and lunch. Of course there is the local watering hole, not sure about their offerings for food. Subway is a choice, but not the dining experience we wanted.
One evening a very large deer appeared on the hillside giving everyone a chance for a Kodak moment.
Dave has acquired a new toy and I am sure that our friends’ husbands in Florida will want one when they see it. (Sorry Linda, Karen, and Kay) Know how competitive these men are.
Since we have been here, we have watched Bernie and his brother-in-law doing several projects. These owners sure work hard each day. With all the rain, they have had this season so far, new gravel is in place to help with the drainage on the sites. Adding a new site with sewer, putting in a drip line for watering the trees along the property line. A new staircase became a major undertaking and Ray and Dave were about to go get some hammers and help them out They were nearly at the breaking point of watching them with that project.
The Newmar units are arriving and some will move to other spots by the weekend. Mountain View Campground will become a Newmar Minnie Rally. On Friday, the fun began as more and more campers arrived. The owners, Bernie and Joanne were great with getting people into the sites. Moving units off sites that the owner and the help were on to make room for anyone else arriving without a reservation. As the day progressed to evening, it was space available and all done with a sense of humor and willingness to cooperate. Never has Mountain View been so full with so many big units. People only left if they chose not to stay and join in all the fun. Dave and Ray took some pictures of the scene and presented them to Bernie and Joanne, who were delighted to have them.
Bernie was up early to say goodbye to everyone. Joanne was making coffee in case anyone needed it. It was sad to say goodbye to them. They are great people and have such pride in what they do. We wish them all the best with their Mountain View Campground in Sundance, Wyoming.
RALLY TIME.
Welcome to Gillette, Wyoming where the wind does not stop blowing and the red sand along with it. Do not think we will ever get the red out of anything. We are about a mile from the events that will take place this week. No trolley to take us there and back so will have to drive the car. We opted for dinner out tonight and settled in on Applebee. We were just in time, as many people did not stay to wait. The Service was not the quickest but with all the people was tolerable. We rather expected this as so many magazine and news articles advertised for help in Gillette. Seems with all that is going on there was a lack of help in the area. We will survive the week.
We did not sign on for any tours with the Newmar Rally, instead we did most of them ourselves with CH and Earlene and Ray and Jean. We took in the tour of the coal mine. This is a massive operation going 24/7 our tour guide was one of the big truck drivers while going to collage and her father is employed by the mine as the maintenance supervisor. She is now a teacher and does the tours during the summer. Our tour was great considering that we probably got into places that we other wise would not have. See new when a truck was coming to empty into one the shoots. She also knew that the truck drivers were having a lunch or dinner break and that is why they gathered in one spot. We saw an explosion, as they were breaking ground to expand the coal mining area. This was a great tour of the mining operation even if it was a little on the warm side. Dave really wanted one of those big trucks. We missed the filling of the trains as the trains never run on time. (Sound familiar) This area provides one-fourth of the U.S. coal. Each train has 120 coal cars attached. Moreover, there are about 3-4 trains each day. Yeah we did hear the train whistles.
Gillette is a growing city and there are many parks and reclaimed areas. Building homes and business by leaps and bound. It will be a boom place in a few more years. However, there is the winter thing to consider and that constant wind that blows all day every day. Nope not for us.
The Rally events were okay and there was a lot of grumbling going on this is not one of the best rallies we have been to. We did manage to get some things done on the unit and acquire a few items too. We now have a central vacuum system and it works great. All things must come to an end. The last meal was Prime Rib. It was soooooo good. Yeah I had a second helping of the Prime Rib. Done just the way I like it. Entertainment was not bad, just the system was and you lost nearly all but the music. No, it was not just my hearing, but everyone else said the same. It would have been more enjoyable to hear the whole thing.
Met some nice people and probably will keep in touch with them along the way. Will more than likely seem them in Cody? Seems everyone is going that way.
We eat out a couple of more times once at a Mexican restaurant and once at an A&W. Everyone needs a little nostalgia here and there.
Not sorry to leave Gillette to move on to Cody, Wyoming
Trip to Cody, Wy.
We left Gillette early on Saturday morning, June 30. Jean and Ray have decided to travel with us and CH and Earlene will follow along later in the day. We have about 250 mile to get out of the way and some tickets to the Extreme Bull Riding that begins at 6:00pm. Waiting for us
We drove I-90 to Buffalo, we will pick up route 16 outside of the city and head farther west. This route traverses the Big Horn Mountains and the Powder River Basin to an elevation of about 9600 feet. We stopped along the way to let see some of the area and appreciated the beauty of the mountains and lake below. This took us to Ten Sleep and then into Worland to connect with 16/20. Just outside of Greybull, we stopped for lunch. Many Newmar owners also followed behind us also on their way to Cody. After talking to them, they were going to be at the Absaroka Bay RV Park too. We made it into Cody in plenty of time to set us and relax before the Rodeo. Helen is glad that we are going. Carl only bought the tickets because we said we would go. She said next time she wants something she is calling Dave and Sue.
This is the first time the Extreme Bull Riding has been in Cody. The event will be on later in July on ESPN. Very exciting event with the bulls kicking and jumping high up into the air and charging so fiercely out of the gate A couple of the riders were stomped on by the bulls, but do not know if the injuries were serious. The cowboys have a rule about wanting to walk away no matter what. The riders must stay on for 8 seconds. It must seem like 15-20 seconds for the rider when they are trying to hang on. Many rules go into the scoring such as if they are holding on to the side of the bull for any length of time, Did the free hand touch the animal at any point, or how the toes of the boots are pointed. Man I just be worried about hanging on long enough for the buzzer. Everyone was excited for the winner and I will not tell you who won just in case you want to watch the event for yourself. I will tell you if you ask though.
After working up an appetite watching the event we, all had dinner at the Sunset House. Good food, and with great company to talk with about the day and some catching up with great friends and their lives. CH and Earlene did arrive later in the day. They are staying out at Green Creek RV park and not in town. Jean and Ray were lucky enough to get a cancelled spot at same park as us.
There are certainly many people here in the RV Park that was at the Rally. Nearly every unit in here is a Newmar product.
We will be ready to start enjoying the many events that will be going on this week in Cody.
July 4th Holiday Week.
There is a lot going on in Cody this week. Have been doing the tourist shopping and browsing on Sheridan Avenue. We stayed in the town just long enough to watch the shoot-out on the side street of Irma’s Hotel. It was a tourist thing to do. Not sure who all the characters were, but know that Buffalo Bill, Calamity Jane, possibly Wild Bill Hickok, The Sheriff, (whomever he was at that time) Jim Courtwright, Teton Jackson, the Saloon girls and Bartender, Bank and the Clerk, and of course the Jail. No shootout is complete without the bad guys (maybe the Whole in the Wall Gang) come into town to drink and carry on in the saloon. Of course, they escorted out of town, and then they decide to rob the bank, spring their friend from the jail and ride out of town. Coming to the rescue and the showdown is the Good people and the shootout begins. Know you know the rest of the story.
Took some time to clean and remove the dirt and dust from of the motor home. We may have a new color added to the paint. Did not think we ever would “get the red out”. Well after opening, the curtains this morning discovered a crack in the windshield of the motor home.
This being the holiday it will take some doing to get the repair done. We discovered that it would be a couple of weeks to get the windshield in from Indiana so with no other options we wait, glad we had plan on staying for a while. Oh the joys of motoring.
Skipped the Kiddy Parade on Monday and watched the three-hour parade on Tuesday we met up with Jim and Lynn from Florida for lunch. Seems we are not the only one traveling with friends this summer. They managed to find an organization that was having Bar-B- Q. It was very reasonable and tasty. Of course, we would have liked to have the $1.00 beers that as advertised, but we realized it was a misprint and paid the $2.00 for them. Jim and Lynn were excited to see us as we were of them. Pretty neat that we come all this was just to meet up and have lunch. We stayed in town, shopped some of the places with Ray and Jean.
Got tickets to do the Trolley Ride and for the Buffalo Bill Museum. Will do the Museum another day. The Trolley Ride was a fast pace 22 mile one hour trip. It went up, down, around over and through many streets and sometimes twice for effects. Out to the Buffalo Bill Dam and back to the beginning. We did learn some new things about Cody. There is some Sears Roebuck Houses still left standing. A new Golf Course and Recreation Center with an indoor pool has recently opened. Annie Oakley was very much a woman and dressed as to show it. The streets are very wide because Bill wanted to be able to turn a team of horses around in them. Old Bill made sure that the eastern entrance to Yellowstone went through Cody. He was quite the businessperson and when you think about it quite smart and knowledgeable.
Seeing the big parade was on today it would be a great time to visit the museum, not many people, as they would be at the parade. Good choice we would say. Viewed the Native American exhibits and by then we needed some lunch and the crowds began to show up. We then went to the Cody Firearms Section. Now you know there have been many different rifles made over the years, so after viewing 1500 of them in one section a sign appears to direct you to the lower level and see 1200 more. Now that is many guns!
With the people getting elbow to elbow we decided we had seen enough and to come back early tomorrow and finish the museum. We have decided to grill the hamburgers and hotdogs tonight to have the all American Meal for the fourth. Carl and Helen will join us later for dessert. We went to the hill overlooking the city of Cody and Watched the fireworks display. They were delightful even though Carl kept telling us this was not the big city deals we may be used to seeing. Little does he know how many different places we have been on the Fourth of July? By far the display was awesome. We left and returned to the campground after what we thought was the finale. About a half hour later, the actual finale went off. Seems there was some minor problem with lighting that last fuse `causing everyone to leave the area thinking it was over. Oh well we had fun anyway.
Day two of the Museum was a little less crowded, most people have left town with the holiday over. We managed to see just about everything there. The American West section and the Natural History section was probably my favorite. A new Area called Seasons of Discovery is for the child in all of us. Many sights, sounds and smells of nature. Very well presented with interactions
We went to Old Town where the Western Frontier revealed in the buildings and artifacts. The historic significance of these structures provides a legacy of how people lived. Some of the buildings were used by Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid., Kid Curry, ( Hole in the Wall Gang) (“Liver Eatin”) Jeremiah Johnston, and Curly who was a scout for Custer. The owner is getting on in years and no one has stepped in yet to help with the upkeep. We hope someone does soon to keep this piece of history going.
What is a visit to Wyoming without going to the Bear Tooth Mountains? Jean and Ray have not been to the area so we took them. Took Chief Joseph Highway (296) which is about 20 miles north of Cody it took years to reconstruct this roadway. It has many bends, turns, and views just waiting to for an experience. As you climb, there are fields of wildflowers and chug water rock formations are along the roadways leading up to the top. You drive through Painter Canyon, continuing up to Dead Indian Pass, with an elevation of 8,060 feet to give one a dramatic view of Sunlight Basin to the west and a northern view of Clarks Fork Canyon. The antics a couple of chipmunks trying to take an apple up and over a stonewall caught our attention as we took in the view. Some one should have not left it for them, but it was fun watching anyways. Once down into the canyon the Clarks Fork River is a wild rushing force. We stayed to watch a couple of people who were going to kayak the river, said they were probably a class 2 or 3 rapids in the sections they were going to traverse. Some antelope were grazing along the roadway. Seems there are quite a few of them around these parts. Carl says they are good eating. Guess we will have to try to find some-place that has it on the menu. Dave is not fond of the buffalo meat, but I like it. He says it is too dry. I think he is just to use to the juicy hamburgers saga.
At the junction to the Bear Tooth Highway we decided to give Jean and Ray the experience of being on it. We went nearly to the top of the 11,000 ft elevation and turned around to see the lake and flowers just before the Top of the Hill Store. It was very busy at the store, but took time to look anyways and take some pictures for others to so they could have some memories of being there too. After a stop at the Waterfalls and a picnic lunch at some others down the road a piece, went on into to Cooke City, which was bustling with motorcycles, there will be a Gold Wings Rally in Billings sometime within the next week, that is why so many are around. We entered Yellowstone through the Northeast Entrance, Soon after we encountered to our first jam in traffic. A bull moose was lounging in the shade of the pine trees. He was one of the biggest I have ever seen and my first actual moose sighting in the park. (No, it was not a large horse, but a real moose.) We traveled on and the forest are coming back it has been nearly 20 since the large fire that nearly consumed Yellowstone. It is growing and turning green with trees once more. The magnitude of the 1988 fire really hits you as you go into each section of Yellowstone and see the downed trees and bareness of the hillsides. Moreover, the new growth is there, Mother Nature is doing her best. Stopped to view the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone and see Tower Falls. Our next traffic jam came when there was an elk on the side of the road. Jean and Ray want some pictures of buffalo, some single bulls were along the way, but Ray could only get rear shots and wanted more than the southern end of one. Didn’t have to wait very long there was a massive jam in traffic in what is know as Elk Valley, should be renamed Buffalo Valley. There were hundreds of buffalo, Bulls, cows, and calves. The bulls were running to gather at one end of the valley and the cows and calves at the other. Many crossed the road and that really stops traffic. The bulls were also starting to spa rutting season is beginning. Quite sites seeing them challenge each other, from the very young to the seasoned bull.
Jean said our day would be complete with the sighting of a bear or two, she would just wish one up for us. We stopped at Fishing Bridge and saw a small female elk as she sauntered down the roadway. The Trumpet Swans and White Pelicans were on Yellowstone Lake and many people were fishing along Yellowstone River. Before we exited, the East entrance there was the bear sighting that Jean conjured up for us. This was the grizzly bear that we wanting to see ever since we have been coming here. Ray said well now we need the black bear and just down the road was one running along into the woods. We saw the bear, if the ranger had not made us keep moving Dave could have gotten the picture of it. Our day was complete as far as we were concerned. We decided to have dinner at Irma’s on our way back to the campground. Prime Rib was the special, so our treat was a great meal. Thanks Jean and Ray.
Jean and Ray left us today, Friday July 7. We will miss hanging out with them. Our window is still on order and we must wait a couple of weeks to get it shipped in. Carl and Helen come by each evening and visit. They ask about the group that did come with us some years ago. We tell them all hello for you. Met Jim and Lynn on Friday night, they will leave on Saturday and head for Montana and then Glacier National Park. Pick a restaurant called Bubbas Bar-X-C. The food is quite good and plentiful. Very good and want to go back. They are leaving on Saturday to head up to Montana. Will keep in touch and see if we can meet later in the summer when they make there eastward journey.
On Sunday, we had to move to another campsite out in Wapiti Valley. It is a scenic place and we like it. Miss being so close to town though. The valley is growing and more houses are now out in the Valley. A new subdivision is going in, it is called Copper Leaf about 20 sites have already been sold. The parcels are dividing into 1-3 acres sites ranging in price from $190,000-$300,000. Do not know why so many are moving and building in this area other than the views and less congestion. Yeah they should all experience a big city traffic jam. The wind blows nearly all the time and along with it, the red dust. It is cold in the winter and yes can be quite warm out in the flats of the valley. Snow is still visible on the tallest peaks. Guess it is the view. As with everywhere else, the sizes of the houses are not small either.
We drove up into the valley eastward to see if we could find any wildlife and there was not much about. Found some National Forest Camping Parks, that have been improved with Electric and water and made larger to accommodate the bigger rigs. That is always a good thing to know. Next venture was up into the hillside behind us. Could not believe how many houses are up there. Many of the houses constructed within the last two years. Now we know why not many deer come through the campground as they did before. Many horse trails up into the hills are around.
Driving to the Wapiti Valley area one must go through a couple of tunnels and to the sights of the Buffalo Bill Dam and Reservoir. Having never toured the dam, we decided to do just that. At 295 above the Shoshone River, you have a great view of the rugged canyon below. Very impressive workmanship and now they managed to improve on what some 9o years before the founders of Cody did. The original road in the canyon and out to Yellowstone was narrow and very steep. Helen told us that as a little girl her dad would not want to go that way as the trek as tedious and very slow going. Most time one had to back up or pull way over to the side if another vehicle was approaching. One can see some of the remaining roadway today. Mostly it is part of the new dam and waterway and used for inspections of the area. The Dam refurbishing raised the dam an additional 25 feet and the reservoir water capacity by 200,000 feet. It was finished in 1993 and designated an official highway stop especially since it is on the way to Yellowstone. Many farms and a couple of towns are no longer in existence with this additional capacity of water; however, the recreational aspects increased with boating, waterskiing, fishing, windsurfing and of course the campgrounds for every one to enjoy.
Our thought was to see what is on the other side of the Reservoir. Over the river and onto the dirt roads we ventured. Why else own a jeep if you cannot experience the back county. This was no short dive; it is many miles when you are following the shoreline. White Pelicans are along the shoreline along with some plovers. We saw a few antelope at first, but as we came to the very back of the reservoir, we found a good size herd of antelope. This roadway then took us to the South Fork area. More farmland and a few housing developments as you got closer to town. Quite a contrast from the North Fork area where we are now staying where with the make up of the land being a composition of rugged rock formations and canyons. Helen grew in the South Fork area on a diary farm.
Seeing we need to alter our schedule for some friends, we decided to drive down to Thermopolis, Wyoming for the day and not spend days there. Thermopolis grew from its known stage stop and fort route to an area know for the warm medicinal mineral springs. Hot Mineral Springs State Park is the original spring area and a very interesting place. One does not just go and dip into the heated water. It comes out of a deep spring from a mountain that bubbles up and through time has been diverted to the cemented pools for enjoyment. The temperature out of the ground is at 134 degrees and cooled some for one to get into. The state park offers one area at a time limit of 20 minutes and then a colder pool to go into. There are additional private attractions that also offer this treasure. We decided to just walk the perimeter and enjoy the boardwalk and watch the tourist marvel at the sight of the deep spring. They should go to Florida to admire the springs there then they would really know what a deep spring is. Of course there the water is only 72 not 134 degrees.
Discovered a dinosaur museum and decided to take the tour. We know of three boys who would have loved this place. Quite a collection containing the whole dinosaur complete with information on where found and possibly, what they would have eaten. There was an exhibit from Peru was of dinosaur eggs and what the nest would look like with the babies in them. There was a tour leaving for a digging site, we were almost tempted to do it and would have if the temperature outside was not 97 degrees, sun shining and not a breeze to even ruffle the leaves. Knowing that the tour would be in a desolate area, no shade and after doing the dig, we could not keep anything that we found our options were to pass.
Monday July 16, 2007
Invited Carl and Helen to join as we drive out to see Mammoth Hot Springs at the Northern Entrance to Yellowstone. Entering the East gate we dove to Fishing Bridge and out to Elk Ridge where many buffalo gathered and slowed down the traffic as they decided to be the lead going down the road or stopping it entirely by crossing the road. Soon we had our first bear sighting and we were just a little too late to get a picture of the grizzly as he entered the trees and out of sight. Next was the Black Bear, just a young one, but people were very amusing and not understanding that by blocking the bears way they could be in danger. Mentality is “well it must be tamed we are in a National Park and the Ranger is not being very nice to not let us near it.” Managed to move on and see a female elk grazing and someone thought they were photographing a moose or mule deer. Do you just wish you could be Jeff Foxworthy and give them their sign?
At Mammoth Hot Springs, the temperature was very warm and we managed to walk some of the walkways and view the calcium carbonate that formed the many spectacular terraces. There is a drive that passes through the thermal area that gives you quite a view of the Mammoth Area. We ate lunch within the town and viewed the old hotel and general store. This area contained an old fort which the US Army protected the area from about 1866 to 1916. Some of the buildings are still in use, such as the Park headquarters is the old Fort Yellowstone cavalry post.
We traveled south to the Norris Ridge and then east to Canyon and found the Grand Canyon of the Yellowstone and the Upper Falls. What a great view of water cascading over the rim and spraying mist up into the canyon. A slight rain shower dropped the temperatures to a comfortable 75 degrees for the remainder of the trip. On our way out of the park, we found a mother moose and two babies eating the willows along the side of the road.
It made a long day, but enjoyable as we escaped the heat of the day in town. As usual it cooled off with the rain showers that followed us out of Yellowstone.
The couple next to us is originally from Chelmsford, Mass. The more we talked we found out the he worked for the same company Sue did in New Hampshire in the late 60’s and tried getting the company Dave worked for in Groton, Mass. To make some gears. Like the saying goes, small world.
Have heard from Jean and Ray who are now back home in Torrance, California. CH and Earlene are in Oregon at the Columbia River Gorge. They are having quite a trip with many things going wrong. She is ready to go back home too or at least make the Oregon Coastline and head south.
Journal 24
Friday July 20, 2007
When we woke this morning early, we decided to take a ride into Yellowstone and just do Yellowstone Lake Area. We stopped at Fishing Bridge and toured the Visitor Center. It sets off into the woods on the opposite side of the road from the village area and if one were not paying attention to the signs would miss it. Having been built and designed in the 1930’s, is made from logs and chinking, with a massive fieldstone fireplace, wood floors and many windows and doors that open to flagstone patios. The backside overlooks Yellowstone Lake. Large pine trees shade and nearly conceal the building. One gets a serene feeling to take in the view of the massive lake from.
We went to the West Thumb of the Park, walked along a boardwalk, and viewed the thermals there. Some people were kayaking along the shoreline. We had thought about doing this some time ago, but decided that it was not quite, what we wanted to do and with the temperatures being so hot the lake although, cooling is quite cold just below the surface. As we were walking, some woman wanted to know if there would be some of those water buffalos in this area. Now we have seen some wildlife, but as far as we know, water buffalo are not in this park. Yes, the buffalo do go into the water but that does not mean they are water buffalo. Okay woman here is your sign!
We still had plenty of time and decided to run up to Old Faithful. It was in the upper 80’s. We had some ice cream while we waited for the show. When the crowds cleared, we walked over to the Old Faithful Lodge. She is a grand old lady and they are trying to preserve her. It is great to be able to see this place. Considering nearly 20 years ago, she was nearly lost to the devastation of the fire. Disney did manage to capture the essence of Yellowstone Lodge, with a little more pizza.
Our visit was complete when on the way out we saw another grizzly bear. This one was crossing the road and as we started to slow down for it another vehicle needed to pass by and if we had not waved them to slow down it would have become their new hood ornament. Some people are always in a rush. Guess it must have startled that driver, cause after that they drove quite a bit slower. Our mother moose and young ones were where we had seen them earlier in the week. This time the little ones were romping in the stream while mom was eating.
Journal 25
Saturday evening we joined Carl and Helen for dinner. It has been in the 100’s for quite a few days now. Seeing it was so hot, we ate out. Let someone else do the work. After dinner, we drove through town and the temperature as 110. Even Carl said he never knew it to get that warm here. We dove out the Southfork area of Cody. We have mentioned that Helen grew up on a diary farm there. Little did we realize that it was nearly 50 miles out of town? This is a pretty valley and goes for quite a ways. Many original cattle farms or Dude Ranches and some divided into private lots. Know I could not live that far away from civilization. It is a valley that one would not venture into unless you really wanted to experience the rugged terrain.
Out in this area you will find the gypsum mine. The east end the mining has stopped and the reclamation is complete. The west end is still in operation. The red formations called chug water and that is what they look for to find gypsum.
Out in this area ones mind can picture the Wild West as it really was. The irrigation system is still in place and it boggles your mind that it flows up hill in areas and provides this valley with water. It has done so for many years.
On our way, back we found a bull moose munching away on the willows near the river or creek. Carl said that there used to be many moose in the area at one time. Therefore, it is nice to know that some things are coming back. We have not seen any mountain goats or sheep. The temperature has been more than warm so they are staying up in the high ground. There were a few deer, not as many as there should have been.
Monday July 23
Trying to get out from some of the heat in town, we drove over to Chief Joseph Highway into Sunlight Pass, a backcountry valley of Northeast Yellowstone. Carl and Helen had family camping out in the boondocks of this valley. Quite scenic and a bit wild, Here again you can find ranches and private homes. Mostly National Forest land with trailheads for horseback riding and remote camping allowed. There is gypsum can be found out here, it looks like snow on a mountaintop. One mountain in particular because of its color is White Mountain. While driving I spotted something running in a field with cattle grazing. It was a bear. At first, we thought it was a grizzly, but when it stopped, we noticed that it was a cinnamon color. It was a rather young bears and do not know where momma was, but it wanted out of that fence. As soon as it looses its coat or baby fur, it will be a black bear.
When we reached the campground, we told the others about the bear and they said that the ranger had been down earlier to report that a bear was in the area and acting aggressively. We figured it had to be this same bear. Nice campground if you want to be out in the very wild. They were catching fish in the river that was running through the campground. Water was very cold coming off the mountainside. Carl said that the elk would come into this area out of Yellowstone, especially if the wolves are chasing them. The wolves sometimes roam in the valley. That could be trouble for some of the wolves, especially with the free-range cattle there.
The heat has finally let up some. We had four days of rain, not downpours, just a nice steady rain and intermittent showers. The temperatures dropped to the 60’s at night and low 80’s during the daytime. Rain does not come without a price. There were mudslides in Yellowstone near Sylvan Pass. In addition, this area is still under construction. Some of the campers here said they had just managed to bypass the area before it covered a fifty-foot section of roadway blocking the exit until the next morning. There was also a mudslide in South Fork, but did not do as much blocking of the roadway. In the Beartooth, mountains there were flash flood warnings and the camp area we visited a few days ago had high water in the stream that ran along there.
We dined with Carl and Helen and had a great pizza from an Italian Restaurant whose owner was a former resident in St. Petersburg. He moved his restaurant to Cody in 2000. He visits Florida now and then, but prefers his business here now. How often do you go to a restaurant and have the owner come and great you at your table?
Our trip to the Tetons
We started real early for the trip to Grand Teton National Park. It is a quite a drive down there from here. You can get there tow ways and going through Yellowstone was the shortest. We went out of the West Gate of Yellowstone and that road, being the only one takes you to Teton. We stopped at the Flagg Ranch Information Station and got a map of the area to make the most of the day. Once out of the forest you first see Jackson Lake and then Mount Moran. Impressive, stately grand with rocky terrain and glaciers still on the north face of it. We stopped at Willow Flats Overlook, which is near the Jackson Lake Lodge; this area known, for the many animals that one should see there. For us it was the wrong time of day for any sightings. Bear, moose, elk, deer, beaver, are what we could have seen but did not. There were some plants growing that resembled blueberries, not sure they were, very sure that the bears would have liked them.
Our lunch scenery was near the Jackson Lake Dam. While unloading the goodies we had a weasel trying to catch his lunch of a squirrel. Think he got lunch. There was also a Pika looking on in wonderment. Do not know if they desire them or not. Many people fishing near the dam and a few putting in boats and kayaks for the days journey down river.
We drove up the five winding, narrow road to the top of Signal Mountain for the overview of the Lake and Mt. Moran. We did see Mt. Moran, and the valley to the east where were would eventually wind up in. See the lake was another story, someone forgot to mention that the trees actual grow tall and have covered up that view. It also was very hot in temperature at the top. We liked getting down to the lower temperatures. Ever notice that signs are posted for reasons and that people think it does not pertain to them,like driving a motor home or RV up the narrow roadway. Yeah you guessed it an RV was at the top. But that was a little crowed going up and down that grade.
On to Jenny Lake where we tried to stay, only the cost was inhibited for us. ($525.00) per night. That is okay someone else said they were quoted ($875.00) . We not only stayed there we could not even find a place to park after two circles of the parking lot. We did find a pull out along the roadside to take pictures of Grand Teton, Middle Teton, and Mount Owen. At Moose Junction you cross the snake river, which was flowing rapidly downstream. Probably a class two or three rapids along the way. The East side of the route 191 follows the Snake River. We did manage to see a bull moose and a couple of antelope. The day was perfect for seeing the mountain range with just a little smoke around. The fires in Montana are sure causing a lot of haze. There was a pretty bad motorcycle accident on our way back into Yellowstone. Do not know what the cause was, but he bike was into the woods and off the roadway. Some people had stopped to help and held up a screen as to prevent any visual of the driver and passenger. Out thought and prayers went out to them.
Our way back into Yellowstone we stopped at Grant Village. The power was off in the building, but they are in the middle of restoring this visitor center. On our way out we caused a traffic jam while taking pictures of a couple of elk. Sometimes you got to be the first one to do things. Our day ended with dinner at a little out of the restaurant not far from the campground. It was the best way to end a great day.
Last Days in Cody.
We moved from Wapiti Valley back into town to have a couple of days closer to Carl and Helen and spend some time with them. Have enjoyed our visit here and seen areas we otherwise would not have if we did not take the time and the back, side roads to get to them. Carl is a wealth of information and it is great to listen to him tell us of the things that were in the area. Helen is pleased to have done so many things with us.
The presence of many motorcycles tells us that Sturgis is gearing up. Actually starts on Monday Aug. 6 for the next couple of weeks. This weekend is a balloon festival of sorts here in Cody. We will go and see the balloon glow and hopefully the weather will hold out for it. The temperatures have been very hot here this last month and few rain showers. The nights are starting to cool down and that is a good thing.
Carl took us to Meeteese to the canyon area where he lived for a short time. It is amazing to know that you have been to some place and not ever realize what is off the beaten path. We had been through Meeteese a couple of times and never would have known this valley is there. Many mule deer and white tail deer are in this area. Huge farms and out of the way places.
The next event was the balloon glow, Carl and Helen had never attended this event. We could tell by Helen’s smile that she really enjoyed this. There was not many, but just enough to give you the idea of what it is that the balloonist does. They inflate the balloons and then light the burners, as the evening darkens the inside of the balloon lights up or glows. If weather permits tomorrow, they will have a couple of events. The wind was too strong on Saturday morning so the Hot Air Balloons did not take off.
Sunday Aug. 5th
All good things end. Sorry to report that our hitchhiking mouse has met its demise this morning. After several tries with different contraptions good old d-con did the trick. We left Cody this morning and are on our way to Theodore Roosevelt National Park and Medora. We took a side route to Powell and then headed north towards Bridger. Where we picked up route I-90 to Billings and joined to route I-94 to the North Dakota Border. There was a lot of smoke in Montana from the many fires that are burning there. We did not see any fires as most are towards the northwest of the state. After Glendive, Mt. the smoke lessened.
We stopped at Beach, N.D. to fuel up the motor home and we are only 25 miles from our destination.
Here we are again at Roosevelt National Park Medora, N.D. Our last stay here was in May of 2005. Not much has changed except that there are a few more people here visiting. The weather is nice and we are out of the smoke from the Montana fires. Our trip around the park loop was enjoyable and there were many buffalo roaming. Mating season is starting so the bulls have joined up with the cows and calves. We found the wild horses a ways from the roadway, so we hiked up to get a better look and some pictures of them. Walk the Coal Vain Trail it was a little warm, but we both managed. Always find something interesting along the way such as the petrified wood down the embankment where no one else would look. Some wildflowers in bloom and as we were leaving there was a buffalo traffic jam. Dave tried to have one get in the vehicle with us. I was not amused. He was so close that I could have petted him. Dave thought that was funny as it was not on his side of the vehicle he could see no problem. We also found some more wild horses close to the roadway and that was another traffic jam.
The campgrounds seem to be less full now and that is because the summer rush is over except for the last of the big ones Labor Day. We like this area; however, the trains were quite in abundance the last couple of days. Carrying coal and flatbed cars as well as hauling the wheat.
Tomorrow we meet up with Ed, Brenda and the boys. Correction, they are young men now.
Our travel across North Dakota is bright and sunny. Harvesting has begun at many of the farm fields with plenty of wheat, corn, soybean, and sunflowers. We traveled route 94 to Jamestown, N.D. In addition, headed north on 281 to Devils Lake. This is a beautiful area and the lake is huge. It is also on an Indian Reservation. One of the bet ones we have seen in some time. There is a Casino here called Spirit Lake where we stayed for the night. Lost our money and had dinner anyways. They have a great selection for meals that are very different. There is a large campground for those that want to make reservations, a hotel, cabins or you can stay in the parking lot. Our entertainment was watching the crop duster zoom around the area spraying for mosquitoes. Think those pilots are a little crazy with the flying of those things. The rain started during the night and was a relief from the heat so it was cool for sleeping. The morning found us up and going early, seeing we are only about two hours away from Turtle Creek State Park we found the local Wal-Mart. It was not the super one so we had to find a grocery store it was called Wally’s Mart. Was it a coincident that most of the store items had label markings the same as Wal-Mart ?
On our way, again we had to stop and admire the sunflower fields and get some photos. We arrived at Turtle Creek just ahead of Ed and Brenda. Our sites are pull-through with electric and a community waterspout, shaded sites and not very many campers or campsites. This was a CCC park back in the 1930’s. They built a small dam and swimming area that is still used. The one building that is left was the dining area for the men. Later it became a bathhouse and concession stand. Artistically designed structure, which is now a picnic shelter. In 2000, a major flood went through this area and destroyed the lodge. There is a new one in its place, set back from the riverbank and the original plans used for the rebuilding. These plans are hanging on the walls for everyone to see and appreciate. It contains beautifully polished white pine flooring, large stone fireplace, and patio area.
Our great adventure was into Grand Forks, North Dakota and across the Red River is Minnesota. Ed gave us a tour of the town as well as the University area of North Dakota. It was Saturday so one must attend the Saturday Market. It was great fun and a few vendors with fresh vegetables, bread, pastries, jellies and other items for sale. We walked over the bridge into Minnesota and Cabela is sporting goods store. We managed not to go broke or spend all of the children’s inheritance in one place. Our greatest feat for the day was to have fried catfish for lunch.
Now if you saw a sign that said Catfish Festival what would you think was on the lunch menu? Wrong it was a chili cook off. One just catches and releases the catfish. One does not dine on Catfish here. Walleye and perch are the delights. We went to a restaurant that serves old-fashioned food. Tristan, who just recently returned from Greece, needed to satisfy his craving for hamburger and fries.
Our greatest entertainment was the swatting of flies. Dave held the record of eight seized with one swat. Tristan tied the record a couple of days later. Everyone but Brenda was into the game; she did not want to kill the wildlife.
Monday August 6, 2007
Off on another journey into Minnesota. We have chosen the Cass Lake area as our destination. Mainly it was about half way for both Ed and us. In addition, a lake would afford us the chance to relax and enjoy the time together. As we are driving, the flies are along for the ride; or so they think. Is there a law against swatting flies while driving? This may have to be a new rule along with cell phone use.
We arrived with overcast skies and a promise of rain or a storm in the works. Later reports were of a tornado touching down at Turtle Creek, which is where we left earlier this morning. We did not have the severe storms as they split and went south and north of our location. Seeing we planned to grill out tonight the plans changed to eating dinner at the restaurant at the Stony Creek RV Resort.
Cass Lake is quite large in size it also boasts of having a lake within a lake. Star Island does have Lake Windigo in the center of it.
We went in search of a couple of bogs in the Chippewa National Forest. While driving we crossed the Mississippi River. One could not only canoe it, but wade somewhat across it in this section. Had no idea that the river flowed north in this area. The Pennington Bog was not well marked, and right off the road with nowhere to park. The Webster Bog is off a side road that we will get to another day. After stopping at the Forest Service Information Center in Blackduck, we got directions and some great information. We found a CCC camp and decided to spend the time on a tour there. Camp Rabideau Historic Site has 112 acres and 15 original building in the process of restoration. Have visited some CCC camps before, but this is the first one with the buildings and furnishings. These buildings are now on the national registry, which will qualify them for more funding to keep the restoration going. The buildings consist of the officer quarters, hospital, barracks, mess hall and school. These may have been a little more preserved do to the fact that the University of Minnesota used these buildings for some summer programs up until the late 70’s.
Off to find the Beginning of the Mississippi. Brenda needs to find the origins of the River. This took us to Itasca State Park and the headwaters of the Mississippi. In 1832 explorer Henry Rowe Schoolcraft, with the help of an Ojibwa guide traveled to Lake Itasca. Debates continued until Jacob Brower’s survey revealed that the entire Itasca basin was the ultimate source of the Mississippi River, but only after the waters unite and flow out does it become a river. This then explains the northward flow that we saw. It actually forms a fishhook design to start flows into Cass Lake and then out to the Chippewa National Forest area. From there it begins its southward trend around Grand Rapids. For all those that were wondering, yes, we crossed the Mississippi without getting our feet wet and did not do anything in it to make it polluted. Brenda wanted too, but there were too many people around.
Thursday August 16.
Ed and Brenda left us this morning early. We had such a great time together this last week. It was fun meeting friends along on our journey. Dave and I decided to try to find the Webster Bog only to discover that the trail was full of deer flies that were out for blood and then some. Part way through we had to fight off the attack and abort the mission. Webster Lake is very beautiful and quite hidden off the beaten path. There is primitive camping in the area, but not for big rigs. On to other things like a grocery store and packing up as we will leave in the morning for Wisconsin. Predicting cool temperatures for the morning (50). Will have to dig out some long sleeves.
Cool and Crisp is how to describe this morning. We are traveling eastward along route 2. Stopped at the welcome station in Wisconsin to obtain information on camping and sightseeing along the route we have chosen. Later in the day, we stopped at a second welcome station. Our intentions were to have lunch and then decide where to stop and what to see. This was a new rest area and the building quite modern and designed to look like a lighthouse. It was three stories and the top was an observation tower that looked out over Lake Superior. There was a gift shop and a small museum. A couple of trails also were outside that brought you along the roadway and around the building. After talking with the volunteer at the desk, she gave us a campground to find in Ashland. A City Park is along the waterway and is first come first served. It was only about three miles away so we opted to drive there and have lunch. About an hour after our arrival, most of the spaces were gone. This park has a boat launch, picnic area and the campground. Adjacent to the campground was a long looking pier that was actually a concrete dock that was the largest in the world, built for the Minneapolis / St. Paul and Sault Ste Marie Railroad in 1916. Its original length was 900 feet but lengthened to 1800 feet in l925.
It sets 80 feet above the water with 150 pockets (75 on each side).Each pocket could deliver on to a ship 60,000 tons of iron ore. Trains backed down, opened the hoppers underneath the cars and the ore filled the ship. These chutes (pockets) are 34 feet in length and could be lowered or raised electrically with in 32 seconds. The upper deck lighted for nighttime. Fifteen rows of lights with 5 - 200 watt bulbs suspended on cables across the dock. It closed down in 1965.
We stayed two nights in Ashland. Breaking our rule of staying put on the weekends we drove out to the Apostle Islands National Lakeshore on Saturday. It was a brisk day and long sleeves were in order again. In Bayfield, we found the National Park Office and learned that even if you take the boat ride one would not be able to see all six lighthouses in the area. We did find the farmers market all three tents worth.
We traveled up to Red Cut, which becomes the Indian Reservation and no access to the water. We headed back to camp a little disappointed in the adventure, but not before, we found the apple farms.
Back in Ashland, we found a bigger farmers market going on and an auction of a former shoe repair business. Ashland has murals painted on some of the buildings depicting the former life of the town (City). Quite interesting and one had the images of those in the service.
After watching many boat go out fishing and a couple of pretty sunsets we really liked the geese that landed in front of our camper. We watched them catch a bite or two and off they flew.
Minnesota and Wisconsin are very dry and fires restrictions are in effect. We are surprised that some places will let you have campfires and others will not. We are also seeing signs of fall with some of the leaves turning. It may be because of the dry conditions or maybe fall is not far off and it is our sign to start heading south, only if it cools, off down south.
Sunday and Monday, we spent in Munising, Michigan along the shores of Lake Superior. The campground is also a city park. Water and electric sites that is very spacious. We could have had a campfire here, but decided that with all the dangers posted we would be good Samaritans and not cause any more problems than necessary. The water is a surprising warmer than we expected. The level of the lake is down about 2 feet. Without the annual snowfalls or rain showers things can only get worse. On Monday, we went in search of the many waterfalls in the area. There are about seven in a 20-mile radius. First, we found Alger and Wagner Falls. Alger is right next to the road and Wagner just around the bend and about 200 yards into the woods. Munising Falls once had an iron ore mill at the site. It had a fair amount of water tumbling over the edge it also was a little walk to it. At the end of Sand Point road, there is a museum and access to a beach. We found many agates along the shore along with downed trees that have exposed knarred roots. Dave liked the photo ops they gave him. It was very clear and we could see Miners Castle in the distance. The ferryboat was also giving tours of the cliffs across the lake on Grand Island. We dove to Miners Falls and hiked the mile and a half round trip to it. Again, the water was enough to make the journey worthwhile. Amazing that with the drought conditions that any amount of water could be flowing over the edge of the falls. Miners Falls is located at the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. Access to Miners Castle is here. It is a limestone rock formation that had an arch in it and quite some years ago fell into the lake leaving two pillars that look a little like castle spears. Many trails along this area and some interconnect to the other falls that we visited. The only falls we did not go to was Bridal Vail. One must go by boat as it falls over the cliffs into Lake Superior.
It was a successful day in discovering the waterfalls. Time to move more eastward
We stopped Tuesday August 21 at Lakeshore RV Park in St Ignace, Mi. We can watch all the ships coming and going and see clear across Lake Michigan to the other side. Mackinaw Bridge is about 2 miles east of us and traffic still crawls across it. We spent the rest of the day catching up on chores and tomorrow will journey into town.
The port area in St. Ignace is small and with the day overcast not many people around. We watched the jet boats with their rooster tails leave and enter port. Walked the shops and toured the Indian Museum. This weekend is the 50th anniversary of the Mackinaw Bridge. We will be leaving here on Thursday morning so will miss the celebration. There will also be a walk over the bridge, so that will mean a closer of the bridge for a few hours. We do not need to be waiting for that to reopen.
The smell of smoke was in the air this morning. The overcast or foggy conditions could be all fog or a mixture of smoke and fog. Have not seen or smelled smoke since we left Wyoming and Montana. Although fires are in the area, they have not affected us.
Will miss our room with the great view.
Leaving the U P of Michigan Thursday morning, it was a bit foggy still and the prediction is rain for the remainder of the day. We headed south across the Mackinaw Bridge to route 31. This will take us along the western shoreline of Lake Michigan. Into some small towns, but we do not mind. The drive will not be that long and will have some scenery along the way. Petoskey gave us views of the water, along with the very large and expensive houses that face Lake Michigan. Charlevoix was a bustling little town pretty flowers lined the streets. There was another festival going on, and again not a parking space. . It was more of a farmer’s market-taking place. Many new golf courses, some open, others still under construction. Cherry Orchards and some fruit stands that were open, selling things other than cherries. The season is over for them; however, apples, peaches, plums and corn are in season. One must indulge in such things when freshly available.
We stopped in Traverse City to meet up with a couple that worked last year at Hillsborough River State Park. We were greeted with a sign on their motor home that said “Welcome Dave and Sue” So I guess we were wanted. It is something different we are doing meeting friends along the way. After setting up, we search out the Sam’s to restock the supplies. Kay, I know you read this and for your personal information, Sam’s stocks the Winter White that we both like.
Things are a bit expensive in Traverse City. We did not expect to pay an exorbitant fee to camp. We did not have 50 amp service or water at the site. For a 30 amp, no water site, with our vehicle charges the nightly rate was $42.00. Yeah, you read that right. Because we have a motorized RV unit, we had to pay an extra fee to park it. Had we had a trailer or tent we would not. Ask if I wrote a scathing letter to the State Park Service? We may visit Michigan again; however, it will not include a stay at a State Park. Private would have been cheaper and we would have had full hook-up.
On Friday, we found a lighthouse out on Old Mission Peninsula. It is a private residence, but the state owns the surrounding property. An old log cabin is beside the lighthouse and was moved there to preserve its history to the area. You can walk the trails and access the beach. The water level has receded from the shore several feet in this area. Just think it was more noticeable from this shoreline than other areas we have been.
This peninsula is also the wine country. When we discovered the wineries it was early in the morning, but hey, it was 5 o’clock somewhere. They were opening and what better way to spend a day that is overcast and misting out. Will not divulge how many pieces we had Linda. Chateau Chantal sits on a hill overlooking the peninsula. It has a hotel, bed and breakfast, restaurant, and wine tasting room. The size of this place is enormous looking, yet very regal and elegant. Chateau Grand Traverse gives the wine tours and the vineyard is on the hillside overlooking the bay. We noticed rose bushes at the end of each row of the grapes; this is to help them detect disease and insect infestation. What affects the roses will also harm the grapes. Each time we visit a winery we learn something new. We also found information on how to read the label on a bottle of wine.
There were some rain showers on and off during the day. Most of the rain for this area will happen overnight.
Saturday Morning we woke to rain, but by afternoon, the sun was shining again. The temperatures have been a little warmer and as we head south that will keep increasing.
We will leave on Sunday for Ohio. Had a great time with Gary and Deb, and looking forward to seeing them again at Hillsborough in October. Traverse City is larger than we thought. Glad we had the chance to explore the area and appreciate some of it. The waterfront is delightful with easy access to it. A variety of watercraft is on the lake and adds to the beauty and serenity of it all.
With the resent rains, there has been major flooding in Ohio. Findley and Toledo have been underwater; reports of closures along I-75 because of flooding have made the news. We left having faced the flooding in Iowa and South Dakota with the Missouri River, returning with the flooding of the Ohio River. Leaving Traverse City, we headed east on route 72 and then south on I-75. Some construction, but no delays as it is Sunday. We branched of on to I-23 to Ann Harbor, Michigan and into Toledo, Ohio. There were signs of flooding along the roadway and the rivers and streams were very high with rushing water flowing over the embankments. In Findley Ohio, part of I-75 had washed into a quarry. We stopped in Lima, Ohio to meet Ken and Pat. We will stay with them a couple of days and then continue our southward journey.
On Tuesday, we headed for Monticello, Kentucky to Lake Cumberland. The Campground is Conley Bottom. There is a marina here with boat rentals available. This lake is an about 100 miles long with 1200 miles of shoreline. The water level is down considerably while work on the dam is in progress. All of the boat ramps have an additional five feet out into the lake. From the water level marks along the shore, it looks as though the water is down about 20-25 feet. It is a reservoir made by the Core of Engineers. Therefore, the water level controlled by the dam. A couple of State Parks and Core of Engineer Parks are available for camping. These parks are clean and level, there is a drop off to the water so tying ones boat next to the campsite would not be possible. Most take their boats out each night while staying in these parks.
We managed a couple of boat rides on the lake with its many coves and steep cliffs. With the water calm and not many boats, Dave did fine with the ride. Rain has not been plentiful in this area during the summer months. Many of the trees are turning brown and leaves are dropping off. Fall will probably not have much color this year for this area. Had lunch a couple of the marinas and thoroughly enjoyed the scenery and cliffs. The coming weekend will be Memorial Day. The water will be quite crowed and rough going with many boaters.
We are still with Ken and Pat. Thanks to them, we have experienced Cumberland Lake and the surrounding area. We went to Mill Springs, which has a small mill that grinds yellow corn. A three story wooden structure uses the original grinding wheels and waterwheel for powering the wheel. There are several springs to supply the water for the wheel. With the dry conditions in this area, it was a surprise to find them all having water. Pretty cove and if water were not an issue, the waterfalls would have been tumbling over instead of trickling.
Have discovered Kentucky Silk Pie, a great desert that is very light, fluffy and load with calories. Great treat for this warm weather. Served frozen and could have eaten the whole thing by oneself.
At night, it was nice to view the water with all the lights from the boats along it. For a couple of nights we had a visitor. The one that is all black with a white stripe. As I was standing one night talking on the phone, I happen to glance down under the motor home and saw this dark object under it sniffing the ground. At first, I thought someone’s dog was loose, but then I noticed this white area on the top of its head, I nearly wet my pants. I quickly turned and headed for the street and asked, “Is that a skunk?” Yes, it certainly was we all just watched it move on, but not before it came back towards where I was standing. Thank goodness, it turned and went back where it came from. We saw the skunk twice more and that was enough for me. I was very careful where I walked and watched for the dark shadows at night. There were a few bats flying around and even saw a couple of fireflies.
It has been fairly warm and humid here at Conley Bottom RV at Lake Cumberland in Monticello, KY Not sure we want to continue this southward trend with these temperatures still warm. The nighttime temperatures hover in the 70’s, but would like them to be lower.
Thursday after the Memorial Weekend, we said good-bye to Kentucky and headed south and west into Tennessee. I know, this is not the right direction for going home, but what can we say. There are still a lot of days between now and October. We left Monticello, picked up the Louie B. Nunn Parkway, and headed west to Rocky Hill, where we joined route I-65 South. At the Kentucky- Tennessee border, we filled up with fuel. Have been to many Flying J’s in our journey never one that was as dysfunctional as that one was. Some of the truckers did not pull far enough ahead to let others fuel while they were paying. Others just left their rigs and went in to shop blocking the next from leaving the pump area. Sure if it took there, longer guns could have appeared or the fist would show up. Many times the business paged the drivers to no avail they showed up when they darn well felt like it. Stopped for lunch at the Information- Rest Area, and then continued down and around Nashville. Nashville is a busy city with a great amount of smog and warning signs telling of it. There were signs telling of debris in the road, managed to miss all but one piece of metal, not signs of damage to anything so we were lucky. We got off onto route 412 and headed east towards Columbia, TN. Followed it the Natchez Trace Parkway. We had to detour a little to avoid the low bridge, and we mean low clearance. To get to the Thousand Trails Wilderness Preserve. This is probably an older Thousand Trail encompassing not only the preserve but bordering chief Creek Lake. The site on the lake do not have sewer, but the view is relaxing and refreshing. Many activities are here and we will try to do some of them in our short stay.
We went into Hohenwald; its settlers are of German decent. While there, we discovered a winery about seven miles from town. Keg Springs Winery is very much off the beaten path and the narrow winding road through the hillside is pleasant. Worth the trip as the wine is very good. Could not find one we did not like. Sure, glad we there are no custom stops between here and Florida. Would not want to pay duty on all these bottles we are now carting with us. We need one of those signs that read, “We stop for wineries”. We did manage to save a couple of dollars only to spend them at Wal-Mart. Next was the decision to eat fried catfish for dinner or hotdogs. We opted for the hotdogs provided by the campground. No meal is bad when you do not have to prepare it or clean up after it.
The campground offers a boat ride on the small lake. It takes about 45 minutes for the tour at idle speed. No wakes allowed. This Thousand Trail Campground was originally a hunting preserve. The original lodge remodeled to accommodate several family members. The other cabins are one to two bedrooms that face the lake. Divided into 3 sections there is camping area one for the more permanent campers area two for the overnighters or others that stay a week or two, and the third section is the ATV trails. Not usually for hiking, however they will let you do that, of course at your own risk.
What other way to spend the day than at an ice cream social, puzzles and waiting for a spaghetti dinner. It rained on and off this afternoon, really do not mind raining on the parade, so many places need it. We have a small leak at the bedroom slide and will have to get that fixed.
We must say good-bye to Ken and Pat and be on our way east again. Will head off in the morning for a few days in North Carolina.
We leave Tennessee and head east once more to North Carolina. Wanted to stop and catch up with our friends there. We arrived early afternoon with warm temperatures and a little breeze. As the day becomes evening, the coolness is in the air. Went to the top of the mountain for dinner, comes with a magnificent view. TVA controls the water level at Lake Hiwassee, have never seen it this low. One realizes the effects of not having enough rain. Although a lower, lake level is normal for the fall and winter, this time it is about 5-10 feet lower than normal.
We are enjoying the pleasant weather and trying to get back into shape by walking up the long driveway and managing not to huff and puff so much. Each day it gets better. We had a little rain during the week and then on Thursday night on into Friday there was quite an amount of rain that fell, about four and a half inches. Our leak at the bedroom slide was still happening. Know where it is leaking and getting in, trying to stop it from happening is a dilemma. Once the rain stopped, Dave journeyed into town to get the needed supplies. The next rain shower or downpour will be the test.
We headed back up to the mountaintop to have movie and dinner night with all in residence. How serene the night is to see all the twinkling of the lights below. The hillside is growing all the time. The lights at night make it more visible to realize it. Dinner of grilled sausage and hamburgers, along with wine and desert made a great evening for all.
As with all things, our time that we spent with Don and Rosie has ended again. We said our sorrowful good-bys and headed south on I-75 once again.
We have wanted to stop at White City, Florida at the Stephen Foster State Park; this is our time to do that. It is a very clean, well-kept park. Many new buildings are in place one can learn about a craft by taking classes here. Several events take place, one being the Bluegrass Festival. It is very difficult to get a campsite here in the winter months.
This place along the Suwannee River is a museum of sorts for much of the sheet music as well as the pianos and players of Stephen Foster. He wrote and composed many songs; Way Down upon the Suwannee River, (Old Folk at Home,) My Old Kentucky Home, I Dream of Jeannie with the Light Brown Hair, a tribute to his brother’s wife, Beautiful Dreamer was the last song he wrote. Having never been to Florida he managed to capture the essences of Florida so well and the troubling times as well as the lives of the blacks in the south. The Bell Tower plays a medley of his songs throughout the daylight hours.
We will be here a couple of days before we end up at our home base again. Keeping an eye on the storms and deciding when to return to the fold. Our newest problem is not with the motor home, but with the brakes on the Jeep. Seems the brake controller had a malfunction and caused the brakes to lock up on the Jeep. This will be a costly repair and one that cannot wait. It has to be ASAP
A few rain showers, but we have managed to walk most of the park and talk with different rangers and volunteers. We would return to this park.
Last Journal Entry of the 2007 Travel Season.
We have been on the road since the end of April. Always a little sad to see the journey end, but also glad know there will be three adorable, smiling faces that know Pumpkin Day has arrived again. Along with four other adults that are glad we have returned.
We have seen flooding on our journey out to the west as well as on our return. Fires dominated many of the states throughout the summer months. For all the rain, there was also the most severe drought.
A few hailstorms that caused minor damage compared to others stories.
Many rain storms that ended with brilliant rainbows to enjoy. Blooming wild flowers to and looking them up in books if we could not identify them. Wildlife to watch with in their natural environments. Every state we were in had more turkeys than we have ever seen before. Deer are also in abundance, along with the geese. What a thrill to have seen bear in Yellowstone as often as we did.
Met with many friends along the way and managed to spend some great times with them all. From our California ones to the Florida ones and there are some we would have liked to met up with, but there is always the next time.
What we liked best about this trip was the easy pace we set going and returning. There were times we had reservations and others that we just took a chance on. The road repair was not all that troublesome this trip some places more than others. Oh yeah, Georgia is still at the forefront for construction. At least we had no traffic jams. Of course, there are the roads that need repair badly, and will probably not see any for quite some time.
Our place that we want to return to is Minnesota and Wisconsin.
Until next year.